DAY FOUR AND FIVE OF SPRING BREAK: Easter Sunday, Jail, St. Patricks, Trinity College, Temple Bar, Dublin Castle and more!

       My last full day in Ireland was filled of touring and learning. It also happened to be Easter Sunday. For some reason Ireland did not seem too big on Easter...well at least Dublin did not. I am used to seeing little girls running around in their Easter Dresses, boys in their little suits and both boys and girls running with their Easter baskets flying behind them. Not in Ireland. Everyone was just going about their day as usual, nothing was different. Even so, I missed my family lots. It was my first Holiday in 20 years without them!! :(

    Because it was our last day we wanted to get everything in as possible. First on the list was Kilmainham Gaol one of the most historical places in all of Ireland. Events that took place here are the foundation of Ireland as a country. Kilmainham is a jail that was closed in 1923 and housed hundreds of famous Irish people both men and women. Going to a jail on Easter does not seem like the most ideal thing, but when you are traveling like us.... you gotta do what you gotta do!

   We got to the jail fairly early and we were told the next open tour was not until 2:20pm. In order to see the gallows and the jail cells we had to take a tour. For students the tour only costs two Euro! The jail was packed with visitors just like us. It did not feel like Easter at all. It took forever to find the jail and we did not want to go all the way back to the city center just to come back three hours later. We decided to stay and explore the jail’s museum and get lunch at the jail’s cafe. It was a great choice and totally worth it. I learned so much in just three hours. In the next few paragraphs I will jump around about the various things I learned about the jail during the tour and after the tour. 

       Kilmainham is famous for many reasons. First of all, it was British run for awhile and housed hundreds of thousands of Irish including Irish revolutionists. It was a British jail because the British were trying to take over Ireland. In 1924 the Irish Free State took over running the jail. In the year 1916 seven of the condemned most famous Irish leaders of all time were housed in Kilmainham before their executions. 

      Over the years in Kilmainham ninety people were executed. Out of the ninety only three were women. 150,000 prisoners passed through here. 1910 was the last year a person was hung in the jail, for a crime he may or may not have committed might I add. Right outside of the jail in the gallows one-hundred forty people lost their lives in front of the public. Nearly 5,000 people wold show up a day to watch someone be hung in Ireland. Our tour guide explained hangings were like sport for the people. They enjoyed the entertainment of watching someone suffocate to death.

         Kilmainham was designed by a Scottish Engineer and Architect. It was built on a hill so it had good ventilation to try and avoid the spread of disease. It was also built entirely out of limestone to absorb the moisture. It was designed like a butterfly with two wings on each side and a long narrow body in the middle. Women and young girls on the east side and men and young boys on the west side. It was built in the year 1796. 

When prisoners arrived at the jail they were given a bath, clean uniform, blanket, bible and a small candle. Eventually the candles were eliminated and gas lights replaced them. Cells had just two things in them a bucket for a toilet and a plank bed. We got to step right inside several of the cells. They were not only freezing, but extremely tiny and isolated. 

     Prisoners spent 23 hours a day in their cell usually in isolation. As the years went on eventually it turned into 22 hours a day in a cell and not as much isolation. The jail was operated in complete silence at all times and if that was broken by prisoners there was extreme punishment. During the Victorian Area that was also abolished because they believed it was causing people to go crazy. 

    Before cells were added to the jail in 1845 prisoners were all put in one massive room. Of course this proved to be extremely out of control and problematic. Cells were then created as a result. 

  

     Something that really stunned me about the jail was the type of prisoners kept here. Prisoners were thrown in jail for things as little as stealing a loaf of bread or stealing a shirt. The records of the jail show a 18 year old boy put in jail for six weeks for stealing a t-shirt many other cases were similar. 

      Most upsetting to me was the ages of some of the prisoners. Kilmainham housed men, women and children. When I say children...I truly mean children. The Irish believed that if you are old enough to work you are old enough to go to jail. Boys as young as eight were in Kilmainham for long periods of time...but a lot of children lied about their age in order to work so children even younger then that were in the prison. The youngest recorded prisoner was a boy named Matthew Rosicker (not sure if thats how you spell his name...just how I interpreted our tour guide) He was just five years old when he was put in jail. FIVE YEARS OLD. He was stealing food during the potato famine and was caught.  When I heard this I literally got choked up. They put a little BABY in jail for stealing FOOD. I could list five billion reasons why this is wrong as could anyone. I could not stop thinking about this little boy the rest of the tour. Little kids do things they are not supposed to do all the time. I could not imagine jail being that punishment. I could not stop thinking about my cousin who has four little boys of her own.

      Children in jail were treated just like adults and could be executed as young as fourteen years old. Lucky children were often in Kilmainham temporarily until they were transported to places like Wicklow were they would be held for seven years and educated at least. 

     Another truly astonishing thing about Kilmainham to me was what went on during the famine. The idea of jail is that is was always supposed to be worse than the outside world. Jail was never supposed to be a place desired. During the Great Famine of 1845-49 it became difficult for Kilmainham to make conditions inside of the jail worse than those outside of the jail. Many of the Irish actually started committing small crimes so they could be put in jail where they would at least be guaranteed shelter and some sort of diet. Ninety-eight percent of the population in Ireland only ate potatoes for their diet. One out of every eight people died because of the famine. Out of a population of 8.5 million a quarter were killed. When the famine hit they had absolutely nothing. Jail was their best bet. Also many were forced to crime just to survive and they wound up in jail as a result of that too. 

      Samuel Haughton a professor of geology at Trinity College was a worthwhile scholar. He made immense contributions to meteorology and anatomy. He was also the creator of the ‘long drop’ for hanging. In other words, he provided the means for people to be hung in Kilmainham. There was a picture and description of Professor Haughton in the museum and also an example of the long drop hanging device. 

     Over crowding became a major problem for Kilmainham Goal and one solution was to transport prisoners elsewhere. Nearly 4, 000 Irish people were transported to Australia via Kilmainham. 
      Many of the prisoners in the jail including those executed were people that lead rebellions in Ireland against the British trying to take over. 

     The most powerful main to ever enter Kilmaiham was Charles Parnell. He was often referred to as the unofficial King of Ireland. He was treated like no other prisoner. He had a huge cell with his own furniture inside. He was in the jail from 1881-1882 because he protested for Irish farmers and evictions. He wanted Ireland to be able to governor itself. He fought for home rule as well as many of the leaders of the rebellions. They wanted power over Ireland and they wanted Britain out.

     I mentioned the seven leaders of the 1916 Dublin rebellion above. The name of the rebellion they were involved in was the “Easter Rising”. I found it really interesting we were there on the exact day the rising took place in 1916. I figured that is why the jail was so packed. That rebellion was massive and as a result ninety-seven people were sentenced to death. No rebelling against the British would be tolerated. One of those people was Joseph Plunkett. He was sentenced to death and his final request was that he could marry his girlfriend Grace Gifford another prisoner in the jail. We were able to see her cell as well. They were allowed to be married in one of the jail’s chapels which we were brought into. They had to be married in silence and three hours later he was killed. The seven rebellion leaders (we saw their cells) became martyrs for the Irish people. 

       Another devastating execution was that of James Connolly another one of the leaders who had sustained significant injuries in the rebellion. He was so weak and injured he could not even stand at the time of his execution. He was executed anyway by a firing squad who had to tie him to a chair in order to get him to be able to sit up straight. The first attempt to put him in the chair he fell right out. 

    Besides the execution of the seven famous leaders another famous event that took place at the jail took place in 1922. It was the execution of four young men by a firing squad in the yard of the jail where our tour guide took us. They were executed for being rebels during the Irish Civil War. Under Marshall Law any executions must be done using firing squad hence the reason it took place that way. Our tour guide explained the saddest part of this was the fact they were executed by twelve young men that had fought alongside them int the Civil War at one point. The Irish flag flies over their execution sight now. 

  

     Our tour guide also explained the meaning of the Irish flag while we were standing underneath it. The orange stands for those loyal to Great Britain, the green is for those loyal to Ireland and the white is for peace between both nations. I never knew the history behind it and I really enjoyed that knowledge. 

   Towards the end of our tour our tour guide made a comment to a man on the tour. He was an older gentleman wearing a badge over his heart. Come to find out his grandfather actually ran the jail in the 1920’s. He had come here for the first time to learn about the jail and his grandfather. Our tour guide mentioned his grandfather several times.

    Many famous movies were filmed in Kilmainham along with a few Television shows. For instance, the movie “In the Name of the Father and parts of the movie “Michael Collins”. Michael Collins was a famous Irish Civil War Revolutionist killed in battle. Many of the people executed and that fought along side him were in Kilmainham. The Televsion show “Prime Evil” has full episodes filmed in the jail. 

    Our guide also explained many famous escapes from Kilmainham. Including the most famous where the three men got away in the middle of the night and were never found. One of the men went on to becomes a Historian and a Author. His books about Kilmainham and the escape can be found in book stores all around the world.

    Kilmainham Goal was a major component in the Irish fight to become an independent nation. It housed those involved in the fight for independence and for many was also where they faced death for doing so. Both men AND women contributed to fighting for Irish freedom. In the end it was obtained, but the memories of Kilmainham Goal still remain. I left the jail with so much respect for those that were executed and those that fought for Ireland against the British even if it meant certain death.

    When the jail was closed in 1923 it basically fell to ruin until a group of Veterans were determined to restore the jail and turn it into a historical monument. In the 1960’s it was restored by volunteers and now is a monument. 

     The museum had so much to it. I learned about the living conditions in Kilmainham, the hard labor they forced men and women to do, the exercise yard that was not really for exercise at all, the crimes of various people put here, the installation of the mug shot and the effects it had on criminals and repeating crimes, changes made over the years to approaching prisoners, rehabilitation and living environment. I felt like I soaked in so much. I have no problem stating I am one-hundred percent against the death penalty no matter the circumstance (I have heard them all) and Kilmainham was a up close look into how gruesome executions were in the 1900’s and how inhumane they are still. It reminded me (not that I really need a reminder!) why I despise the death penalty so much. 

    The jail also had temporary exhibits that displayed artwork from current prisoners all over Ireland. The work was mind-boggling. Such talent. It amazes me really...some people just have so much potential. 

 It was an interesting Easter in jail, but totally worth it. I learned so much about the Irish history I never even knew.

    After seeing the jail Adrian, Nora and I really wanted to at least see St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Easter. It was starting to rain, but we didn’t mind. We waited in line to get into the Cathedral for about forty-five minutes to find out it costs 5 Euro just to get inside. I was very annoyed the church was charging that outrageous amount on Easter of all days and we walked in got to the counter, took a peak inside and left. We refused to pay that money. We spent a lot of time viewing the outside of the Cathedral though and the amazing St. Patrick gardens around it. St. Patrick is said to have performed his first baptisms near the gardens. The tulips were in bloom. So beautiful. 

After St. Patrick’s we briefly stopped at the Hostel to freshen up before heading into the city center to see a few more things. On our way to see Trinity College and the city center we passed the famous Molly Malone statue. 

      As we were admiring the statue a crazy thing started happening next to us. A man sprinted out of a convenience store with things stuffed under his shirt. He began sprinting and out came flying the store clerk yelling and chasing after him. The clerk caught up to the thief and demanded that he give him the things back and when the thief, out of breath, refused the clerk punched him as hard as he could in the face. They continued to shove back and forth until the thief began running again and the clerk was out of our sight. Five minutes later the clerk came back with nothing in his hands looking defeated.

    Across from Molly Malone statue was the main entrance to Trinity College. It was a six dollar fee to get inside, but no one was working the counter because of the Holiday so we just walked right in and toured the campus for free. I texted my mom after we left Trinity and said it is a good thing we did not go to Dublin before I applied to colleges because Trinity is where I would have wanted to go! I have never ever ever ever seen a college campus so beautiful in my life. It was drizzling so my pictures are a little dark and do NOT do any justice whatsoever. I fell in love.

      After Trinity we wanted to go to Temple Bar an area in between our Hostel and City Center where all of the famous Irish Pubs are located. Such a good choice. Every pub had live Irish music and we were in heaven. We decided on going to the Old Storehouse. Not only was the food to die for...I got fish and chips!!! It was well priced and we had live music all night. 

         The band was so great and the people get into it. I have never seen a scene like that of an Irish Pub. People clapping, dancing and doing the jig. It reminded me of a movie. The band was actually just a guitar player who sang and a bag pipes player. My whole week was made when not only did they play Galway Girl, but also Little Lion Man by Mumford and Sons and...get this....THE COTTON EYED JOE! I was doing the dance the whole time!!!!! I loved it so much. I am not really big on the partying scene as many know...Spain’s nightlife especially was not for me....but this I could do. It was relaxing, fun and the music was amazing. I kept thinking...my parents and sisters would love this!!!!!!!

     Afterwards we walked down a few little streets checking out different pubs and shops. Eventually we headed back to campus and our night came to a close all before midnight. 

     The next morning....Monday (today)...we got up early in order to fit in one last thing before our flight...The Dublin Castle! Located right across from our Hostel it is a historic place not only for its early years in the 1700’s, but also because it was occupied by soldiers in WWII as well. The Castle is entirely surrounded by a gate and is its own little community. We got to go inside the Castle and view some other buildings as well. It was a great ending to a great week.

   Before I knew it we were off to Berlin, Germany...waving Ireland goodbye. I was sad at first to leave Ireland and almost wished we had stayed the entire week...but at the same time I know one day I will be back and this time with my family. It is really important to me I get to Ireland with my family. So much of my trip I was wishing they were with me. It just wasn’t the same. I am so thankful for the opportunity though. I will always have a very special place in my heart for Ireland. Not a single place I have been to was anything like it. 

   Now I am typing this from my Hostel bed in Berlin. It was a very long day filled with a lot of frustration getting lost many times...but I am here now thankfully. Our Hostel is probably the nicest one I have ever stayed in ever. So clean and basically it looks like a Hotel. For 13 Euro a night I will take it!  I am really looking forward to exploring Berlin tomorrow. I hear the city is amazing.

   I posted a Facebook status today that said, “such an amazing few days in Ireland...coming back here some day for sure. Germany bound! I wonder if when my Great-Grandpa at 19 years old in 1924 left Germany for America ever thought his Great-Granddaughter would be going back nearly 90 years later. so fortunate I can go home in a few weeks and tell my 101 year old Great-Grandmother all about it!”. I really believe that sums up how I feel about being in Germany. I am once again in the land of my ancestors. I am so lucky and so thankful. I hope my Great-Grandpa would be proud.

    Well, off to bed...its so late! Thanks for reading this super long post :) Many more to come about Germany and England! Hope you had a wonderful Easter surrounded by family.

XOXO

Shann